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五街道 The “Five Highways”
Edo Period Japan’s Network of Roads That Shaped a Nation
Two thousand years ago, all roads led to Rome. Two hundred years ago, all roads led to Edo.
Back in the Edo period (1603–1868), the Tokugawa shogunate set up five major highways, all starting from 日本橋 in Edo (modern Tokyo, see below). These weren’t just fancy dirt paths—they were the veins of Japan, pumping life into its military, politics, and economy. They even shaped culture along the way.
So, what made these highways special? Where did they go? And why do they still matter today?
Let’s hit the road and find out.
Ukiyoe of 日本橋 (Nihon Bridge) by 歌川広重.
日本橋
Originally built in 1603 under Tokugawa Ieyasu’s rule, Nihonbashi became the starting point of Japan’s five major highways, making it the literal heart of Edo (Tokyo). All road distances in Japan were measured from this bridge.
The original wooden bridge was replaced with stone in 1911, and while Tokyo’s urbanization (including the construction of an elevated expressway in the postwar era) changed its appearance, the area remains a financial hub with institutions like the Tokyo Stock Exchange.
The Birth of the 五街道
In 1601, 徳川家康 (see right) had one big goal: lock down his new shogunate after the Battle of Sekigahara. His solution? A nationwide road network—because nothing says "I’m in charge" like controlling who goes where.
And thus, the 五街道 were born:
Read the explanations while referring to the map below.
- 東海道 (Tōkaidō): Edo → 京都 (Kyoto)
The busiest, flashiest route. It connected Edo to Kyoto, the imperial capital. It followed the eastern coast of Honshu and was known for its beautiful scenery and bustling post towns. - 中山道 (Nakasendō): Edo → Kyoto (inland route)
Less coastline, more mountains. Great for those who enjoy leg day (Maybe Yumi, but not Clay; Clay’s skinny legs just can’t take it…). It also connected Edo and Kyoto but took a more mountainous route through the center of Honshu (the largest island of Japan). It was a more challenging journey but offered stunning views of the Japanese Alps. - 甲州街道 (Kōshū Kaidō): Edo → 甲府 (Kōfu)
This road led west from Edo to the province of Kai (present-day Yamanashi Prefecture). It was an important route for transporting goods. - 日光街道 (Nikkō Kaidō): Edo → 日光東照宮 (Nikkō Tōshōgū)
This road led north from Edo to Nikko, a town famous for its Toshogu Shrine, the mausoleum of 徳川(とくがわ)家康(いえやす) Tokugawa Ieyasu. - 奥州街道 (Ōshū Kaidō): Edo → 白河 (Shirakawa), later extended to 松前 (Matsumae)
Extending north from Edo, the Oshu Kaido connected the capital to the northern provinces of Mutsu and Dewa (present-day Tohoku region). It was crucial for controlling the northern territories and transporting resources like timber and minerals.
Five roads, one shogun, and a whole lot of history.
Let’s dig deeper.
Purposes and Information of the Routes
The five major highways of Edo-period Japan shared several key features that made them essential for both government administration and commerce. One of their primary roles was supporting the system of 参勤交代.
However, these roads were much more than political tools—they also enabled efficient military movement, communication, trade, and cultural exchange across Japan.
参勤交代
参勤交代 was a policy requiring feudal lords (大名) to alternate their residence between their home domains and Edo (now Tokyo), to ensure political control and stability.
Designed for durability, these highways incorporated advanced construction techniques. Engineers ensured proper drainage to prevent flooding, reinforced critical sections with paving, and built embankments to withstand frequent use. The roads were typically about 4–5 meters (13-16 feet) wide, allowing for two-way travel by foot, horseback, or pack animals.
Travelers could navigate using distance markers placed roughly every 1 里 (about 4 km). Among these were 里程標, inscribed posts indicating distances, and 一里塚, earthen mounds often marked with trees to serve as landmarks.
A vital aspect of these routes was the network of 宿場 or post towns, spaced at regular intervals. These towns provided necessary services such as lodging, meals, and fresh horses. This system supported the smooth movement of both people and goods, forming the backbone of Edo-period postal and transportation networks. The 伝馬制 system, for example, used relay stations with horses to ensure the rapid delivery of official documents and cargo.
Security was also a major concern. The five highways were regularly patrolled by samurai and local guards to maintain order. Additionally, strategically placed 関所 or checkpoints, controlled who could pass along the routes. These checkpoints enforced travel regulations, restricted unauthorized movement, and prevented the transport of contraband. By monitoring road activity, they played a crucial role in preserving stability and protecting the government’s interests.
Altogether, the infrastructure and administrative oversight of the 五街道 made these highways indispensable to Tokugawa Japan. They ensured the smooth operation of 参勤交代 while fostering economic growth, military readiness, and cultural connectivity across the country.
Now, let’s take a closer look at each route.
The Five Routes: Paths and Cultural Footprints
1. 東海道: The Coastal Artery
Route: 日本橋 → 京都三条大橋 (495-514 km, 53 post towns). Skirted the Pacific coast, featuring challenging passes like 箱根 (Hakone) which was known for its steep, winding mountain pass.
Distinct Traits:
- This was the main route of many 参勤交代 daimyō processions (146 clans).
- By the 1800s, thousands of daily travelers crowded the 東海道.
- Hiroshige's "Fifty-three Stations of the Tōkaidō" (東海道五十三次) series of woodblock prints captures the essence of each station, making it one of the most celebrated visual records of this journey. Learn more on Wikipedia here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fifty-three_Stations_of_the_T%C5%8Dkaid%C5%8D
- Modern Legacy: Now National Route 1; the Tōkaidō Shinkansen and Tomei Expressway follow its path.
- Learn More: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C5%8Dkaid%C5%8D_(road)
Haiku
道のへの 木槿は 馬に食はれけり
―松尾芭蕉
By the roadside,
a hibiscus flower—
eaten by a horse.
This haiku was written by Bashō while traveling along the Tōkaidō, near the Ōi River. It paints a simple yet striking image of a roadside hibiscus flower being eaten by a passing horse.
2. 中山道: The Central Mountain Road
Route: 日本橋 → 京都 (534 km, 69 post towns). Traversed 群馬 (Gunma) and 長野 (Nagano), passing historically preserved post towns like 妻籠宿.
Distinct Traits:
- It had flood-resistant paths and travelers didn’t have to cross any rivers.
- 皇女和宮 (Princess Kazunomiya) used it for her 1861 wedding procession to 徳川家茂.
- Modern Legacy: The 中山道ウォーキング (Nakasendō Walk) attracts hikers; 奈良井宿 (Narai-juku, a well-preserved Edo-period town) hosts the 氷ろうそく祭り (Ice Candle Festival) each February.
Trivia: 松尾芭蕉 referenced 木曽路 (part of 中山道) in 奥の細道 (The Narrow Road to the Deep North).
Haiku
木曽路や 馬の通る ひとの声
―松尾芭蕉
On the Kiso Road,
Horses pass by—
Voices of people.
This haiku depicts the lively scene of horses and people traversing the Kiso Road, part of the 中山道.
3. 甲州街道:
Route: 日本橋 → 甲府 → 下諏訪 (205 km).
Distinct Traits:
- Many right-angled and winding turns
- Mt. Fuji: The route offered stunning views of Mount Fuji.
- Modern Legacy: National Route 20; tourists visit 甲州ワイン (Kōshū wine) vineyards along its path.
4. 日光街道: Pilgrimage to a Sacred Mausoleum
Route: 日本橋 → 日光東照宮 (130 km, 21 post towns).
Distinct Traits:
- The shortest of the five routes.
- This pilgrimage route was designed so that commoners and officials alike could travel to pay respects to the revered founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, 徳川家康.
- Lined with 日光杉並木 (cedar rows)—a 37-km UNESCO World Heritage Site planted by 松平正綱, a lowal vassal of Ieyasu.
Saying
日光を見ない中は結構と言うな
Don't say 'splendid' until you've seen Nikkō.
This suggests that one shouldn't call other things splendid without first witnessing Nikkō's splendor. The proverb plays on the similar sounds of 日光 and 結構, the latter meaning "splendid" or "wonderful." This wordplay emphasizes that Nikkō sets the standard for true beauty.
5. 奥州街道: Gateway to the Northern Frontier
Route: 日本橋 → 白河 → 三厩 (900 km total, 27 post towns). Extended to monitor 蝦夷地 (Ezo, modern Hokkaidō) and Russian ships.
Distinct Traits:
- 松尾芭蕉’s 奥の細道 begins at 白河の関 (Shirakawa Barrier), a poetic 歌枕 (Poetic Pillows. These are specific place names that appear repeatedly in waka poetry, evoking particular emotions, seasonal imagery, or historical associations.). 白河の関 symbolized the threshold to the remote, poetic lands of northern Japan.
- Modern Legacy: National Route 4 features literary monuments in 埼玉 (Saitama) and 栃木 (Tochigi), marking 芭蕉’s journey.
Conclusion: Roads That Shaped a Nation
The 五街道 were more than roads—they unified Japan’s culture and politics. Today, their legacy lives in festivals, heritage trails, and highways. As you drive Japan’s modern roads, remember the footsteps of Edo travelers beneath your wheels.
Saying
全ての道は江戸に通じる
(“All roads lead to Edo”)
Sometimes this saying uses 日本橋 to emphasize the Nihon Bridge’s centrality.
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Two things:
1. The busy street that goes past Shinjuku Station is part of the Koshu-kaido.
2. Almost 20 years ago I lived in the Kita Kogane area of Matsudo. About a 10-minute walk from my manshon there was an old shukuba that was one of the stops on the Mito-kaido, one of the other routes not part of the Go-Kai-Do.
That’s so cool! Sounds like an amazing place to live.